The Great Barrier Reef

Formed over 600,000 years, around half the coral on the Great Barrier Reef has been lost in the last 20 years. It seemed, therefore, incumbent upon me to see it whilst it’s still there to be seen.

From Port Douglas, you take any one of several boats out to the reef – it is, as you might imagine, a popular local attraction. These boats range from private hire to vast commercial enterprises. The prices range in the opposite direction. We opted for Wavelength tours where there are no more than 30 per trip.

The day starts with a long (getting on for 2 hours) trip out to the reef itself. On the way out, we passed the restaurant where we’d eaten the night before:

And one of those enormous tour vessels:

Further out, we were lucky enough to come across a pair of humpback whales:

During the trip, the crew gave us lots of information about the reef and what we’d see when we got there. We were fitted out with wetsuits – the sea was surprisingly cold after you’d been in a while without moving much – masks, snorkels and flippers.

Finally, we arrived at Opal Reef:

and it was time to get in the water (I'm the one at the far end):

It has to be said that the experience was really amazing. I’m no great photographer, but here are a few of the pictures I took:

We saw thousands of fish from the tiny to the huge:

And a few giant clams:

As well as letting us see the reef, the crew told us something about how it developed – tiny animals, related to jellyfish, exude calcium carbonate (limestone) to form the basic structure of the coral. The colours come from algae that cover the limestone and provide nutrients to it by photosynthesis. In return, the coral provides a solid platform for the algae.

Corals only grow in a small range of water temperatures and depths. They also like water which is very poor in nutrients. Since their algal population requires sunlight, they also need clear water. All of these factors are changing and are part of the reason why the reef is disappearing fast.

50% of the coral on the reef has gone in the last 20 years – something which is truly concerning. What is downright astounding is the fact that the Australian government is keen for more to go.

One of the main crops in northern Queensland is sugar cane – you pass mile after mile of it as you drive along. Sugar cane is harvested just before the wet season which means that, during torrential rain, there is nothing to stop the soil being washed straight into the sea. The silt blocks the sunlight which the coral algae depend on. In addition, the fertilizers used on the cane are washed into the sea, making the water too nutrient rich for the coral to survive.

The increase in carbon dioxide in the atmosphere is making the sea water slightly acidic which, of course, dissolves the calcium carbonate. As global temperatures increase (whether that’s caused by human activity or not) the sea temperatures also increase, away from the range liked by the coral.

Australia is, as is well known, extremely rich in minerals which are being shipped out in enormous quantities. The mining companies want to construct new ports along the east coast to facilitate the shipping of the minerals. It is astonishing to me that any company could even have the cheek to ask for permission to dredge a channel through the reef, but what is downright incredible is that the government is all in favour.

Minerals can wait in the ground quite happily, or be shipped by rail to existing ports. Sugar cane can be grown in many places. There is only one Great Barrier Reef. At the current rate, there will be nothing for the next generation to see apart from the small pockets maintained by the tour companies. It is unbelievable that the Australian government is so short sighted. This is not a disaster that might or might not happen, or which will take centuries to have its effect. This is happening right now and it will destroy a world heritage site in a few decades. Even British politicians aren’t that short-sighted.

On a happier note. As well as my little camera which did its best, Wavelength have their own camera. Here are a few, rather better shots.

Finally, it was time to turn round and head back into the Port Douglas Inlet: